Termite mounds

13 09 2009

This termite mound is really big.

This termite mound is really big.

The termite mounds around Australia are both plentiful and big when you’re in the scrub.  The ones up Cape York are just huge.  Some of them were over 5 or 6 meters.  There are various kinds, like the magnetic ones that point north-south and the cathedral ones that are red and big.  They all work sort of the same way: they’re built from detritus and saliva and poo of termites with the dead at the top, the king and queen at the bottom, and the rest of the business done in the middle.  The inhabitants are tiny and blind but highly organized. -jp





None more north

8 09 2009

One more step further and the crocs will get you...

One more step further north and the crocs will get you...

This is the most northerly point in Australia. It’s like, how much more north could this be? And the answer is none. None more north. -jp

related post: None more east.





The system doesn’t work

6 09 2009

The booze we were forced to drink or hide.

The booze we were forced to drink or hide.

On Cape York there are a number of Aborigine settlements and in all of them there are alcohol restrictions.  The entire area north of the Jardine River is all Aboriginal land so we hid the rest of our alcohol behind a tree on the side of the road near the turnoff to Varilya Point.

The restriction system is just silly.

First, in order to keep the Aborigines from drinking too much they’ve instituted this law which effectively causes everyone traveling north to drink too much so that they don’t end up wasting their booze.  That’s called irony.

Second, in the areas like Lockhart River Community where there is zero alcohol allowed, the Aborigines just drive 100km to the Archer River Roadhouse once a month when their government checks come, get hammered, and then drive drunk 100km back to the settlement in the middle of the night.  They do that for three or four nights until they’ve all run out of money and then the area is quiet again.

Third, in a place like Bamaga, you can just go to the bottleshop and BUY MORE BOOZE.

This is not, in my book, a system that works.





Varilya Point – The flies and mosquitos are killing me

5 09 2009

Without going into too much detail, when you’re in the wilderness and have to heed nature’s call, you usually don’t like to be harassed, much like when doing the same thing at home.

Unfortunately, I was harassed.  Badly.  At night by mosquitos and during the day by flies.  To top that off, my tooth was killing me.  It wasn’t one of the better days.  We don’t even have a photo because in the morning we just packed up and left because everyone was pissed off about the flies.

Moral of the story: don’t go to Varilya Point.  And if you do, make sure a number two isn’t on the schedule.





Fruit Bat Falls

4 09 2009

Stop here to get the dust off.  Stopp hier um den Staub los zubekommen.

Stop here to get the dust off. Stopp hier um den Staub los zu werden.

What a great place.  It’s a picturesque waterfall about two meters high with a croc-free swimming hole under it.  But the best part is what the truckloads of tourists somehow missed.  If you turn right on the boardwalk instead of left, you go up the river above the falls where the river is only about 4-6 inches deep rolling over shale rock.  But the highlight are the holes in the rock that make natural pools.

We spent a few afternoons with beer, wine, and champagne sitting in one of the rock pools enjoying the weather and sun.  All the while, everyone else went down to the swimming hole.  It’s like people only do exactly what’s in Lonely Planet without looking around to see what else is in the area. -jp

Was für ein schönes Fleckchen Erde! Wir haben ja tatsächlich darüber nachgedacht einfach da zu bleiben – hihi!

Die Fruit Bat Falls sind kleine Wasserfälle hinter einem Fluß, der ganz flach dahinplätschert. Unter den ca. 2 Meter Wasserfällen kann man sich wunderbar massieren lassen – einfach himmlisch!! Doch das Beste kommt noch. Wenn man den Fluß aufwärts geht, gibt es so ca. 30-70cm tiefe Wasserlöcher. Quasi kleine Pools in denen man wunderbar verweilen kann. Das haben wir uns natürlich nicht nehmen lassen und gleich 2 Vormittage (einmal auf der Hinfahrt und einmal auf der Rückfahrt vom Cape) darin verbracht. Standesgemäß, wie es sich für einen guten Traveller gehört, mit Bier, Wein und Champagner – muß ich dazu noch was sagen!? -mk





Cape York

30 08 2009

If youre going to drive up Cape York get ready for a lot of this view...

If you're going to drive up Cape York get ready for a lot of this view...

So, since everyone knows that we make our posts weeks after the actual events and then backdate them, we’ll just go ahead and make a general Cape York entry here and then make a few specific entries for the highlights.  Sound good?

Cape York is the big peninsula on the east coast of Australia which goes up to the northernmost point of the continent.  In order to get there you have to have a 4WD and nerves of steel.  And tolerance.  Tolerance for the roads, the conditions, the dust, the flies, the mosquitos, and the costs.  It’s about 1500km from Cairns to the Tip.

The main things you notice about the road to the top are the dust and the corrugations.  The dust gets in everything; your eyes, your nose, your clothes, and every part of the vehicle including the bags.  The corrugations are what the trip is famous for and they are terrible.  They will shake cars to pieces and rattle you and everything you have in the vehicle until you start to flip out.  The only way to make them tolerable is to drive faster over them, which isn’t terribly safe.  During the trip one of the back doors broke and had to be rewelded, the lights died, the speakers came off their moorings, and I think I even rattled a filling loose because I’ve had a terrible toothache since about the 5th day.

On the way up we went through Port Douglas, the Daintree rainforest and Cape Tribulation, up the Bloomfield Track to Cooktown, and then into Lakefield National Park.  After that we picked up the Peninsula Developmental Road which led to the Old Telegraph Track which went to the Tip.  Along the way we camped at Charlie’s Mine in Coen, Chili Beach, Archer River Roadhouse, Fruitbat Falls (day use only, bwahahaha), Varilya Point, and then arrived in Seisa.  Up at the tip we camped at Somerset Ruins then returned to Seisa after Rob and Dani’s car broke.  We towed them over 30km of off-road land including a creek crossing back to Bamaga.

After fixing their car and ours we went back down the road where our tire committed suicide and it was a huge to-do with changing it because the truck kept slipping off the jack.  If you’ve never had a car slip off the jack while you were lifting the jack, let me tell you, it’ll wake you up real fast.

We decided to return to Cairns to make good our repairs where the taillight issue was easily and cheaply resolved and the tire issue was really expensive.  Moral of the story: don’t buy wheels that require tubes.

All told we spent nine days going north and hanging around at the top and were gone 2 weeks total.  It was a good trip, all told.  But rest assured: the makers of Aeroguard are lying when they say their product will repel flies. -jp

Cape York – die nördlichste Spitze Australiens. Klingt nicht so spektakulär, ist es aber! Die 9 tägige Fahrt zum Tip war ein einziges Abenteuer. Ca. 1500 km über selten asphaltierte Straße, meist Staubstraßen und diese eigentlich immer mit sogenannten Corrugation, was bedeutet ein Huckel am anderen, sodass das Auto nur so rattert und knart und irgendwann in scheinbar sämtliche Einzelteile zerfällt. Naja, zumindest kommt kein Auto ohne irgendwelche Beschädigungen da hoch. Wir beispielsweise hatten zu beklagen: mehrere Sicherungen sind kaputt gegangen, unsere zusätzlichen Lautsprecherboxen sind runtergekommen, das Licht ging plötzlich nicht mehr und mußte in der Werkstatt repariert werden, unsere hintere Tür ist gebrochen und mußte geschweizt werden, wir hatten nen Reifenplatzer, der uns letztendlich 260AUD gekostet hat, da wir natürlich noch paar Meter damit gefahren sind und somit den gesamten Reifen gleich mit zerstört haben und Justin’s Zahnfüllung ist locker geworden ;-)

ABER! Wir haben’s geschafft, wir waren oben! Es war ein geniales Gefühl endlich da gewesen zu sein, auch wenn wir die letzten 3 km das Auto von unseren Freunden Robert und Dani am Straßenrand zurücklassen mussten, da dieses einfach nicht mehr zu starten war. Die letzten 400m ging es zu Fuß weiter, an einem weißen Strand vorbei und über Felsen bis rauf zur Spitze vom Cape York. Dort offenbarte sich ein wunderschöner Blick auf’s blaue Meer hinaus und wir waren da am Tip!!

Trotz aller Problemen mit unseren Autos, der Weg nach oben war verdammt cool. Wir haben an wirklich schönen Fleckchen der Erde gecampt, die wahrscheinlich größten Termitenhügel der Welt gesehen, haben in einem angestauten Pool eines Flußes kurz vor nem kleinen Wasserfall Champagner getrunken (Krokodil frei!), sind wie wild Offroad gefahren, sind durch Flußtäler gerauscht, waren dreckig wie damals im Sandkasten das letzte Mal und haben unseren Alkohol im Busch versteckt, da es Einschränkungen von Alkoholbesitz da oben gibt, weil die Aboriginies zu gern mal einen über den Durst trinken. -mk

Galleries:

Bloomfield Track – Lakefield National Park

Peninsula Development Road – Fruitbat Falls

The Tip

Returning South








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